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In the mirror, I can see myself in oversized golden pantaloons, perceptible just for my eyes. Children relax in a stone basin imitating ocean creatures, while nearby resides a speaking vegetable in a showcase, alongside a imposing stack of cushions. It represents the world of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), one of the nineteenth-century's widely adored writers. I'm visiting Odense, on the island of Funen in the southern part of the Danish kingdom, to discover Andersen’s enduring legacy in his home town a century and a half after his demise, and to experience a couple of magical stories of my own.

The Exhibition: HC Andersens Hus

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the town's museum celebrating the author, incorporating his first home. An expert notes that in earlier iterations of the museum there was scant attention on the author's tales. Andersen's biography was examined, but The Ugly Duckling were absent. For tourists who travel to Odense seeking fairytale wonder, it was not quite enough.

The redevelopment of the city center, rerouting a major road, provided the opportunity to reconsider how the renowned native could be commemorated. A major architecture competition awarded the Japanese company the renowned designers the project, with the curators’ new approach at the center of the layout. The unique wooden museum with connected curving spaces opened to significant attention in 2021. “We have attempted to build a place where we don’t talk about Andersen, but we communicate similarly to the storyteller: with humour, sarcasm and perspective,” notes the representative. The outdoor spaces follow this philosophy: “The outdoor area for strollers and for colossal creatures, it's created to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he notes, a challenge realized by clever planting, experimenting with verticality, proportion and multiple meandering routes in a unexpectedly limited space.

Andersen's Impact

Andersen wrote several personal accounts and often provided conflicting accounts. HC Andersens Hus adopts this philosophy to heart; often the opinions of his companions or snippets of written messages are displayed to gently question the his narrative of happenings. “Andersen is the storyteller, but he's untrustworthy,” explains the expert. The outcome is a fascinating rapid journey of Andersen’s life and creations, mental approaches and best-loved narratives. It is thought-provoking and playful, for grown-ups and children, with a additional lower-level make-believe land, Ville Vau, for the smallest guests.

Discovering the City

Back in the actual city, the modest urban center of Odense is delightful, with historic pathways and traditional Danish homes painted in vibrant hues. The Andersen legacy is ubiquitous: the road indicators show the author with his iconic formal headwear, metal shoe prints offer a complimentary Andersen walking tour, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Every August this commitment reaches its height with the regular Andersen celebration, which marks the writer's impact through art, movement, stage shows and melodies.

This year, the seven-day event had numerous performances, most of which were without charge. As I explore Odense, I encounter painted stilt-walkers, fantastical beings and an author double telling stories. I hear contemporary performances and observe an amazing late-night performance featuring acrobatic dancers lowering from the town hall and hanging from a crane. Still to come this year are presentations, hands-on activities and, extending the storytelling legacy past the author, the city’s yearly Magic Days festival.

Every excellent magical places require a fortress, and this region boasts numerous historic homes and manor houses across the island

Cycling and Exploration

Similar to much of the country, bicycles are the perfect means to navigate in this town and a “cycling highway” curves through the urban core. Starting at Hotel Odeon, I cycle to the public harbour-side swimming pool, then into the countryside for a circuit around the nearby islet, a compact territory joined by a bridge to the larger island. Town dwellers relax with food here after work, or take pleasure in a quiet hour fishing, aquatic activities or bathing.

In town, I visit the themed restaurant, where the menu is derived from author-inspired concepts and narratives. The verse the national ode is highlighted when I visit, and proprietor the host reads extracts, presented in English, as he presents each course. Such encounters frequent in my visit, the island inhabitants enjoy storytelling and it appears storytelling is continuously available here.

Manor House Visits

Each wonderful magical places need a fortress, and Fyn boasts numerous historic homes and estates around the area. Taking day trips from the city, I tour Egeskov Palace, Europe’s most intact Renaissance water castle. Although large sections are accessible to the public, this historic site is also the private residence of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his spouse, the princess. I ponder if she can feel a small legume through a pile of {mattresses